We jumped to Japan and will get back with Guam and Saipan. If you go anywhere, go to Saipan, especially by sailboat!
We had a decent passage from Saipan. 1250 miles, we calculated 10 days minimum, 12 at most. We literally skipped the boat across the waves, sometimes sailing fast over 7.4 knots with all 3 sails, the main and yankee partially reefed. 150 miles, 130, 120, our daily counts were going down along with the waves.
The first 3 days were incredible sailing, a little bouncy, a few waves broke over the top sending water to the radar height – 15 feet up the mast, over the dodger, and only one cockpit gusher, but it was gloriously dry compared to the Saipan and Guam passages. Quistiti, the French 43′ steel boat passed us the first night out but we maintained email contact with them, about one day ahead of us.
At one point we made 15 miles in 8 hours going horizontally rather than towards Japan, it looked like we were heading to Taiwan on the chart. We motored quite a bit as we headed into opposing 2 knot current and lught wind. Our forward boat speed dropped to 1.5 kts with 2000 rpm. At this rate we began to calculate our fuel burn as the wind continued to wane and the next two day wind forecast was diminishing even more.
We couldn’t maintain our rhumb line, the wind was clocking around so quickly and lightly, the sail changes and tacking became exhausting. Recalculate the fuel burn. The temperature dropped dramatically, No more minimal clothing sailing. Jackets, wet pants, socks, coats all a mess down below as we changed each time to avoid sleeping in a salty bed. Salt was layered over the boat, lines, and cockpit. Konami appeared to be covered in diamonds.
The wind forecast became unpredictable. A small High front which we were in, sandwiched between two passing low fronts, then a massive high with fast wind. And when we finally got through it after heaving to 135 miles out from Okinawa, we were ready for the passage to end. A hangup in email, lack of satelitte phone, and “proper” entry clearance into Japan had us hove to for another 24 hours, 15 miles off the coast of Okinawa as we waited for our information to be processed by the Japanese coast guard. All was good, we cleaned the boat, cold showered in the cockpit in 60 degrees, and rested up for our grand entrance into Japan. Here we are in full dress, make up with earrings, and clean shaven.
Our dream come true realized 21 months after leaving our hometown Portland, how could anything mess that up?
And during our passage, our twin grandsons were born. All went well, Mom and babies were doing well, not sure about the Dad, perhaps in a daze?
Jittery, excited, nervous about communicating, eating great food, and most of all- seeing our families coming from home in just a few short 3 months. The Yonabaru marina is world class with every amenity possible, we have everything here, except wifi and money.
We spent the first 3 days with Eric and Mariella, the French couple and their girls traveling to Naha via bus to finish off Customs, immigration and permit processes. My Japanese speaking ability is slowing starting to revive itself. I can ask the bus driver if the bus is going to where we want to get off. My reading skills are also starting to focus, So many squiggly lines!
The first morning after we arrived I was just too excited to sleep so at 5:30 a.m. I went walking. And in the park near the marina was a group of people my age, performing the “radio exercise” routine. Well I just walked right up, stood and watched until one member noticed me and invited me to join them. 18 new friends, all excited to meet me, hear that we came by a sailboat, and very curious about my heritage.
Needless to say, the last two weeks have been spent with them every morning exercising at 6:00 a.m., taking them out for a ride on the boat – a very rare experience for the average Japanese, eating delicious home cooked Okinawan food that included pig’s innards and feet. We loved the flavor, but something I probably won’t include in my future cooking repertoire due to the texture of the softened cartilage.
We have been surrounded with incredibly heart warming people who are not just ordinary kind Okinawans. Our new friends include famous masters of Okinawan dance, opera singer, composer, Japanese calligraphy teacher, hand craft designers, Chef, and Shamisen teacher.
The French people have been included in our gatherings and the Japanese people just don’t stop with gifts and parties.
Yukiko, a woman in the group from Osaka speaks English very well. She has become a very close friend has been our lifeline. She drove us to the airport at the far end of Naha to get a sim card for our phone so we finally have expensive wifi. $55 for 3.2 gb with a 30 day expiration date.
And between my sister managing our legal affairs and good friend in Tokyo who wired us enough money to last for a couple of months, we no longer need the $45 cab ride – one way- to withdraw cash from the only 7-11 ATM machine in Okinawa. Amazing!
So here we are, we hugged our dear friends with tearful goodbyes with hope of meeting again, riding our terrific folding bikes all over town, we’ve finished our paperwork, caught up on making google earth charts for the fishing ports between here and Kyushu, and waiting for this small low front to move off. We and LeOuistiti are headed for the Kerama islands about 35 miles off the west coast of Okinawa, a World heritage park also known as the “blue water” islands.
We are scheduled to haul out in Nagasaki May 15 for 2 weeks for a much needed bottom paint, rebed some leaky through hull valves, wood work and general maintenance to get our lovely Konami back to her grand state. Dione went to Chichi Jima, north of the Marianas. We will meet up with them in the Nagasaki boat yard painting side by side, and continue together from there.
And by the way, the harbor master said he heard from other Japanese sailors that the Westsail boat is the best boat for traveling around the world, it can go anywhere, safely.