December 9 – 11: Three of the four buddy boats departed Cabo early for a 9 hour run to Los Frailles, it was suppose to have been a light wind day according to passage weather reports. Hah! We bashed into 25 knots of northerly headwind and 6 foot seas on the nose, very wet and bouncy for about 7 hours. We tried falling off 20 degrees but it didn’t make any difference, the waves and wind followed us from point to point.
We watched Anjuli taking it across the nose, at times her bow disappeared downward into the waves and the stern rose skyward so we could nearly see into their cockpit. We were doing the same. I forgot to remove the espresso maker from the gimbaling stove and heard it crash onto the floor. It was a silver bullet, flying through the cabin throwing coffee and grounds everywhere. What a mess that was to clean up! We dropped anchor in beautiful Los Frailles up against the 764′ tall mountain, a nice north wind shelter and had a wonderful peaceful evening.
We upped anchor the next day and with the forecast calling for nice easy winds, we decided it was probably lying and made the 24 hour run straight to LaPaz bypassing Los Muertos where Anjuli and Yare chose to anchor for another night.
The forecast was correct, it was a long motor ride but worth the effort to go early. We caught a following 2.0 knot current through the 27 nm Cerralvo channel around 11:00 p.m. A moonless evening but very few fishing pangas to deal with.
Passing through Lorenzo Channel at 5:00 a.m. was very interesting. A narrow, shallow channel that is only 3/4 mile wide between the 2 buoys and 45′ deep with shoals and rocks too close for comfort in the very dark morning. A beam swell and 15 knot headwind made for another bouncy ride for about 2 hours as we waited for the sun to peek over the mountains so we could motor through LaPaz channel where a comfy marina was awaiting our arrival.
We are so happy to be here! Fast wifi, hot showers with real knobs. Mega grocery store to replenish our green foods. We were down to wilted celery, 5 carrots, a few potatoes and 6 eggs to go with 4 flour tortillas, all leftover purchases from November 28, Turtle Bay to accompany our fresh, 10 pound Dorado. Feel sorry for us?
I can see why cruisers get sucked into staying in the Sea of Cortez for years. It’s beautiful here with warm sunny days, cool evenings, cheap food and entertainment. We purchased juicy red strawberries from a street vendor, a real treat in December! Limons (baby limes) are 50 Cents for 1 kilogram (2.2 pounds), lots of wonderful cocktails. There is a very large expat community about 45 minutes from here, mostly Hood River, Oregonians! Apparently they come here for the kite boarding.
John and I will be tied up in the marina through Christmas so if you have time, come on down and stay with us. Our buddy boats are here, we’ll soon be going our separate ways though, we hope to anchor with them somewhere in the islands.
Not sure of our next destination or when, just North to the islands to snorkel and sightsee, anchor in bright blue water and white sand.